Ratargul Swamp Forest: Jaunting through the waterways of north-eastern Bangladesh
If you want the ultimate waterlife experience, instead of following the traditional route plan, set out on a four days’ course wandering through Sylhet and Sunamganj
The picturesque beauty of the northeast – where India's highlands meet our low hills – Sylhet division, lures in thousands of tourists every year.
As rainwater rushes in, the lowlands overflow, elevating the true attraction of waterways that stretch through parts of Sylhet, making it the perfect time to visit the north-eastern region.
If you want the ultimate water life experience, instead of following the traditional route plan – short detours to Hazrat Shahjalal Mazar Sharif, visiting tea gardens, Jaflong, Bisnakandi, and Madhabkunda Waterfall – you can set out on a four days' course, starting with Tanguar Haor in Sunamganj.
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The houseboat experience
Though there are many haors spread across the country, over the past five years, Tanguar Haor has risen to be the most popular one, offering a combination of scenic panoramas.
Spread over a 100 square kilometre area, this Unesco World Heritage site houses spectacular attractions such as Niladri Lake, Barek Tila, Jadukata River, and Chunapathorer (limestone) Lake that can be covered in two days.
The best part of Tanguar Haor is the water life experience on houseboats. The only way to cover all the above-mentioned spots within 48 hours is by cruising on boats through the freshwater wetland.
There is a wide range of houseboats available for rent with prices ranging from Tk4,500-7,000 which includes bus ticket fare (if you depart from Dhaka), houseboat rent, breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea, and water on the houseboat.
The better the houseboat services and accommodation, the higher the cost will be at Tanguar Haor. The entire trip lasts for around 40 hours starting from departure at 10am from Shahebbari Ghat till 10pm on the following day upon arriving at the same dock.
Though the best time to visit Tanguar Haor would be during monsoon, the haor vibe in Sunamganj during winter is distinct and worth the while. During winter, many migratory birds can be seen here; especially cranes that fly to the wetland all the way from Siberia!
Disappear into the swamp forest
After wrapping up Tanguar Hoar, you can head towards Bangladesh's one and only freshwater swamp – Ratargul Swamp Forest, to experience wildlife while floating through water trails on small wooden boats.
As your houseboat trip ends at Shahebbari Ghat, you can either choose to sleep the night off at Taherpur or head towards Fatehpur, Gowainghat at night, if you want to catch the sunrise at the swamp forest.
For this, you would have to book CNG auto-rickshaws or rental cars – the journey from Shahebbari Ghat to Fatehpur will take about six hours.
However, keep in mind that the boats for the swamp forest do not operate during sunrise. So, you would have to contact Ratargul's boatmen association beforehand, and request boats ahead of their regular schedule.
These small wooden boats can carry up to five people but given the size of the boat, it would be wise to allow a maximum of four people for each boat. Ratargul's boats come with a fixed rental price of Tk750 for three-four hours of sailing through the trails spread all over the swamp forest.
Though it feels a bit spooky, the best part about Ratargul Swamp Forest is its pleasant quietness. It feels as if you are being hugged by nature to the point of oneness. Occasionally, you will see eagles perching above you, looking for their next meal.
After exploring the swamp forest, you can head towards Jaflong right after lunch. There are many CNG auto-rickshaws that operate from Ratargul Swamp Forest to Jaflong. The rates vary from time to time – so bargaining tactics will be helpful here.
Nevertheless, if you want to sit back and relax for the rest of the evening, you can seek accommodation at hotels and resorts near the swamp forest. I would recommend Ratargul Sohel Square Eco Resort located at the edge of the ghat – the most affordable lodging in the area with simple but delicious food.
If you want a bit more luxurious experience, you can consider staying at Ratargul Holiday Home.
The no man's land waterfall experience
The following morning, you can set forth towards Bisnakandi located in Gowainghat's Rustampur union. The best mode for travelling from Ratargul to Bisnakandi would be CNG auto-rickshaw. You can enjoy the fresh morning air as it rides through Gowainghat's curvy roads.
Like Tanguar Haor and Jaflong, Bisnakandi is a village located at the border of India and Bangladesh where Meghalaya's mountain beds meet our wetlands. The scenic border is very popular among tourists, however, I found the boat journey towards Meghalaya equally fascinating.
The boat sails through waterways between India and Bangladesh. On the way, you get to closely witness the livelihood of people residing on elevated lands.
Be that as it may, if you want to take a detour and experience a waterfall on the other side of the border from no man's land, you must visit Panthumai. Though the waterfall is inaccessible, the fresh cold water flowing into Bangladesh from India is worth diving into.
For a usual Bisnakandi tour, the boats usually charge Tk1,500, however, if you pay an extra of Tk300-500, they will take you to Panthumai which is another three-hour-long journey back and forth.
This entire trip can easily be covered in four days and can even be cut short to three days if you are up for the challenges. If you have explored the northeast before, I would suggest trying this route plan; it will be worth your while and money!
This trip can be covered within a tight budget of Tk6,000 if you are willing to spare a bit of comfort for four days. However, if you want to make the best out of it, this trip would cost you somewhere between Tk10,000-12,000.
Positive Aspects
- Nature's true beauty
- Monsoon enhances the experience
- Calm weather
- Waterlife experience
Negative Aspects
- Price hike when there is a huge demand, especially during monsoon season.
- There are many syndicates that, if encountered, can be an exhausting experience.
Tips
- Book at least a week ahead during peak season otherwise you might not get any reservation.
- Avoid weekends! Tourist spots are very crowded on Fridays and Saturdays.
- Better consult tour operators and get packages for groups; less chance of being scammed.
