Farashganj: In search of Dhaka's first 'office para'
Long before Motijheel, Farashganj was Dhaka’s first commercial area, where river trade, colonial commerce and local enterprise shaped the city’s business landscape
Before Motijheel became Dhaka's main business hub, where was the city's first office area? To find the answer, I spoke to Azim Bakhsh, son of Maula Bakhsh, the last Sardar of Dhaka.
Born in 1947, Azim Bakhsh witnessed Dhaka's growth during the Pakistan period. In 1997, he founded Dhaka Kendra to preserve the city's history. Its library contains almost every important book on Dhaka, while its museum displays more than a thousand artefacts from Old Dhaka. That is why he was the first person I thought of when looking into the history of Dhaka's earliest office para.
The 1930s
Keep updated, follow The Business Standard's Google news channel
"Until the Partition of 1947, Dhaka expanded mainly along the Buriganga River," Azim Bakhsh said. The city stretched from Hazaribagh in the west to Postagola in the east. To the north, it reached as far as Fulbaria Railway Station, although the settlements were not continuous.
"During the Mughal period, areas such as Chawkbazar, Imamganj, Moulvibazar, Posta and Lalbagh became busy centres. During British rule, development spread east through Badamtali to Nawabbari, Farashganj, Gendaria and Mill Barrack. Farashganj was at the centre of the city. By the 1930s, Farashganj Road and B K Das Road had developed into Dhaka's main commercial area."
He added, "Before the 1930s, there was little need for separate office buildings. But as businesses grew, companies needed offices to keep accounts, organise files and manage their work. They also needed marketing, advertising and administrative departments. Industries such as pharmaceuticals, garments, edible oil and cold storage expanded during this period. Factories also began producing finished goods from different raw materials on a larger scale. Just as Motijheel later became the city's office hub, companies then often kept their offices in Farashganj, even if their factories were elsewhere."
"Can we call Farashganj Dhaka's first office para?," I asked.
"Yes, certainly," he replied. "The factories were around Dhaka, the wholesale markets were in Chawkbazar and Moulvibazar, and Farashganj became the city's office para."
"The 1930s were also a time when the Swadeshi movement encouraged the growth of local industries. Many zamindars became businessmen and established schools and colleges. As a result, there was a skilled workforce for office jobs," he continued.
"Farashganj developed naturally as an office hub because it was on the river and at the centre of the city. It also had a strong European influence. Although its rise began in the 1930s, it expanded mainly after Partition and remained Dhaka's main office area until Motijheel emerged."
A market with French roots
Farashganj is where Azim Bakhsh's family home stands. Most of his 80 years of memories are tied to this neighbourhood. Before walking through what was once Dhaka's first office para with him, it is worth looking briefly at its history.
The name Farashganj comes from the French. According to Dhaka Kendra, the area was named after the French community that once lived in Dhaka. A French naval fleet arrived in the city in 1682, and the French later established a trading post here.
In 1740, during the tenure of Naib Nazim Nawazish Mohammad Khan (1740–1754), they received permission to set up a market on the banks of the Buriganga. That market became today's Farashganj. It was later leased by the Armenian merchant Pogose. The French established wholesale spice warehouses here and exported Dhaka's famous muslin to different parts of the world.
Farashganj grew steadily in importance after its founding. Besides the French, Portuguese, British and Armenian communities also settled here. At the time, Europeans were most active along the northern bank of the Buriganga, from present-day Badamtali to Mill Barrack.
From the middle of the nineteenth century, Hindu zamindars also began building grand residences in the area. The best known of these is Rup Lal House. It was originally called Aratoon House and was built in 1825 by the Armenian merchant Stephen Aratoon. In 1840, businessman Ruplal Das and his brother Raghunath Das bought the property and had it rebuilt by the Martin Company of Calcutta. In 1886, Rup Lal House hosted a grand ball in honour of India's Viceroy, Lord Dufferin.
Landmarks of Farashganj
Another important landmark in Farashganj is Northbrook Hall. Lord Northbrook served as Viceroy of India from 1872 to 1876. To mark his visit to Dhaka, the city's zamindars and wealthy residents donated between Tk5,000 and Tk10,000 each to build a town hall in his honour. The building, named Northbrook Hall, was opened in 1880.
In 1882, plans were made to establish the Northbrook Public Library at the south-eastern corner of the hall. The Maharaja of Tripura donated Tk1,000, Baliati zamindar Brajendra Kumar gave another Tk1,000, and Rani Swarnamoyee contributed Tk700. The library opened in 1887 with a collection of around 1,000 books. Because of its red exterior, the building later became widely known as Lal Kuthi.
Other notable buildings in Farashganj include Mangalalaya, Boro Bari, Basanta Villa and Bibika Rauza. Bibika Rauza is the country's oldest imambara, dating back to the early seventeenth century. Although it has lost much of its original appearance, it still draws huge crowds during Muharram, when colourful tazia processions pass through the city.
House No. 47 on B K Das Road is known as Lakkhi Villa. It belonged to Basanta Kumar Das, after whom the road is named. Built in 1918, the house reflects the success of Basanta Kumar, who came to Dhaka from Barishal as a young man and built his fortune through the construction materials business.
Another well-known residence is Mangalalaya, built in 1915 by zamindar Ashutosh Das. Its richly decorated façade continues to attract visitors.
A revenue office at Northbrook Hall
Azim Bakhsh began our walk through old Farashganj at Northbrook Hall.
"An interesting thing is that Lord Northbrook entered through the gate on Northbrook Road, while the eastern gate opens onto Farashganj Road," he said. "After Partition, East Bengal had very few buildings suitable for government offices. So Lal Kuthi became a revenue office. The Post and Telegraph Office was also based here, and so was Central Women's College. None of them used the main hall itself. There were large gardens in front of the hall and on both sides. Later, tin-roofed structures were built there to house different government offices."
To the south of Northbrook Hall stood the Johnson Club, where Dhaka's Hindu elite played billiards. Azim Bakhsh recalled seeing the father-in-law of artist Rathindranath Roy playing there. The library at Northbrook Hall held many rare and valuable books. In 1926, the hall hosted a civic reception for Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore.
Directly opposite Northbrook Hall stood the home of the world-famous swimmer Brajen Das and his family. They owned a lime and cement business called the Pakistan Cement and Lime Company.
Turner Graham and James Finlay at Rup Lal House
The building next to Rup Lal House once housed the office of Esso, the oil company, which mainly sold petroleum products.
Rup Lal House itself was home to several well-known companies. Azim Bakhsh remembers Turner Graham, Indian Insurance, and James Finlay among its tenants.
"The property remained in the hands of the Ruplal family long after Partition," he said. "Their representatives lived there. The son of one of their naibs was our age and studied at Jubilee School. Behind the school was the Aga Khan Jamatkhana. They also ran a kindergarten at Rup Lal House. Prince Karim Aga Khan visited the Jamatkhana every two or three years and would also stop by the school."
Opposite Rup Lal House stood a stable, which was probably owned by the Ruplal family. It was later converted into an auction house. The business was started by a British owner before being taken over by a non-Bengali businessman. Rare and unusual antiques were regularly auctioned there.
Beside the auction house, Maula Bakhsh Sardar Road led towards Chamartuli. At its entrance stood the Dhaka Hindu Orphanage. It was originally located on Orphanage Road near Dhakeshwari Temple. However, frequent communal clashes in the area led prominent Farashganj businessman Rebati Mohan Das to request Nawab Salimullah to relocate the orphanage to Farashganj.
Albert David, Pak Bay and Paradise Book Depot
Opposite Rup Lal House was the office of the pharmaceutical company Albert David. Its factory was then in Gendaria. The company still operates today, with its factory and office now located in Tejgaon Industrial Area.
The neighbouring building housed the office of Pak Bay, which imported speedboats and marine engines. Next came Tara Building, where a leather merchant from West Bengal had his office.
Further along was an English-language bookshop and library called Paradise Book Depot. It was known for its beautifully bound, high-quality books. Nearby was a kerosene depot owned by a non-Bengali businessman named Nawab.
Film star Harun's family business
Attached to Rup Lal House was the residence of Ruplal's brother, Raghunath. After Partition, it became known as Noorjahan House.
Before Partition, a Muslim-owned clothing store called L. Mallik & Sons operated in Calcutta and was well known for ready-made garments. After Partition, the Mallik family moved to Dhaka and settled in Raghunath House. They restarted their business in the building that stood where 1 Bangabandhu Avenue is today, before Gulistan Cinema Hall was built.
The house was renamed Noorjahan House after Noorjahan Begum, the wife of the eldest son of the Mallik family. Azim Bakhsh remembers her well.
Industries such as pharmaceuticals, garments, edible oil and cold storage expanded after the 1930s. Factories also began producing finished goods from different raw materials on a larger scale. Just as Motijheel later became the city's office hub, companies then often kept their offices in Farashganj, even if their factories were elsewhere.
"She was elegant, beautiful and always well dressed," he said. "She was also a member of the Dhaka Club."
Directly opposite Noorjahan House lived the family of Harun, one of the best-known film actors of the Pakistan period. They owned a steel business, with their factory in Kanchpur and their office in Farashganj.
"I met Harun a few times while collecting subscriptions for Farashganj Sporting Club," Azim Bakhsh recalled.
Beyond Raghunath House stood the residence of zamindar Brajagopal. Known for his long hair and aristocratic style, he was also deeply interested in culture. He wrote and acted in stage plays, the most popular being Manush O Machine (Man and Machine), which was performed at his own house.
Past Brajagopal's residence lay the everyday goods market known as Shyambazar. From that point onwards, Farashganj Road became B K Das Road.
Chittaranjan Cotton Mill's head office
Opposite the gate of Shyambazar, a narrow lane runs north. It is called Mohini Mohan Das Lane. The first house on the lane belonged to zamindar and businessman Mohini Mohan Das. Swami Vivekananda stayed there for 19 days.
During the Pakistan period, the building became the head office of Chittaranjan Cotton Mills. Azim Bakhsh's close friend, Amitabh Chakraborty, spent part of his childhood there in the 1960s because his father worked at the company.
In his memoir, he wrote, "My father's office had an officers' recreation club with an excellent collection of books. There were facilities for cards, carrom, chess and badminton. A badminton court stood in front of the office. We children played during the day, while the adults played at night. One of my father's colleagues was related to the dancer Gauhar Jamil (Ganesh), who often came to play badminton. The office also employed several Nepali staff, mostly as drivers, guards and peons. They were known for their loyalty and efficiency."
After Bangladesh's independence, the building became home to the publishing houses Puthighar and Muktadhara.
Next was the general store S K Das & Sons, followed by a cosmetics warehouse. Its cash box carried the words "Rupayane Tuhin". The business was an agent for a cosmetics company based in Calcutta.
Further along stood Mangalalaya. The building before it housed a picture-framing shop. Mangalalaya was the home of Ashutosh Das, a relative of Rebati Mohan Das.
Rebati Mohan traded in bricks, lime, sand and brick dust, and owned several brickfields. His bricks were stamped with the initials RMD. At the time, the brick trade was both profitable and highly respected. He also brought lime from Sylhet by large riverboats, which were operated by non-Bengali boatmen with traditional topknots.
Spencer & Company, Burma Eastern and Ispahani
Further ahead stood the office of Everyday Battery. Next to it was a four-storey building occupied entirely by the showroom of Modern Furnishers, which supplied furniture to both private customers and government offices.
Across the road was the house of Magfar Ahmed Chowdhury (Azad), a freedom fighter and member of the guerrilla group Crack Platoon. After the group's attack on the InterContinental Hotel in Ramna, Pakistani forces arrested Azad on 29 August 1971. He was later tortured and killed. Novelist Anisul Hoque made him the central character of his novel Ma.
Nearby stood the office of Spencer & Company, while the office of Burma Eastern was directly opposite. Across from Bibika Rauza was an Ispahani Group warehouse, which had originally served as a lime store during the British period. Further along was the showroom of Lamaras Furnishers.
The owner of Lakkhi Villa, B K Das was also a brick merchant. His brother, Jatin Das, owned much of Ultiganj, where they had several large warehouses. Beyond that stood the Biharilal Jiu Temple, marking the end of B.K. Das Road and what was once Dhaka's first commercial area.
"As Motijheel developed into a commercial area in the 1960s, offices gradually moved there one by one," Azim Bakhsh said. "Once the offices left, the empty buildings in Farashganj were turned into furniture showrooms. The large wholesale markets for ginger, garlic and turmeric that you see today appeared only after Bangladesh's independence."
The Farashganj that has faded away
If the founding of Bibika Rauza is taken as a guide, Farashganj is at least 400 years old. When Murshid Quli Khan moved the capital to Murshidabad in the early eighteenth century, Dhaka lost much of its political importance. Yet Farashganj continued to thrive as European traders and merchants made it a lively commercial centre.
The Buriganga River was the lifeblood of the neighbourhood. As a busy trading hub, Farashganj remained active well into the night.
Today, much has changed. The Buriganga is no longer the vibrant river it once was, and Farashganj has lost much of its old energy. Even Motijheel, which replaced it as Dhaka's main business hub, no longer dominates as it once did.
Looking at Farashganj today, it is hard to imagine that this quiet neighbourhood was once the city's first office para.
