3 dishes from North Bengal’s culinary heritage

No Bengali meal is complete without side dishes, and Kalai Ruti is no different. The bread is typically served with a few bhortas (mashed vegetables) and beef dishes. Photo: Collected

The northern region of Bangladesh boasts a rich cultural heritage, steeped in history and diverse cuisine. Encompassing the Rangpur and Rajshahi divisions, North Bengal is home to a heterogeneous population, including Bangalis, Rajbongshi, Santals, Kochs and other ethnic groups.

With roots tracing back to ancient times, North Bengal has witnessed the ebb and flow of history – from the times of the Pundravardhana kingdom to later becoming a significant region under the Pala Empire. The dynastic shifts, including the Senas, Deva, Khilji, Mughals and Nawabs of Bengal, have left behind their indelible marks. 

As a result, the culinary landscape of North Bengal mirrors its rich history and cultural diversity. 

Renowned for its rice-centric dishes like khichuri, polao, biryani and payesh, the region also boasts traditional delights such as Aloo Ghati, Kalai Ruti and an array of sweets. Fish dishes, including rui, katla, chital and magur, are prevalent, with the region's signature use of mustard oil, mustard seeds, green chillies, turmeric, ginger, garlic and onion as common ingredients.

This week we bring you three recipes from the North Bengal Region that are worth making at home.

Kalai Ruti

Kalai Ruti, a customary food of Chapainawabganj and Rajshahi, is a traditional dish that has made its way from the local streets to the eateries of Rajshahi and Chapai Nawabganj. 

This bread, crafted from a dough of mash kalai-er-daal-er-aata (black gram flour) and chaal-er-aata (rice flour), is a popular choice for breakfast and dinner in these areas. A study titled Traditional 'Kalai Ruti': Street to Restaurant by Sadiya Tasnim Ananna reveals that the origin of Kalai Ruti traces back to the land of Behula, Chapainawabganj, a district of Rajshahi. This place was a holiday spot for the nawabs of Murshidabad and Daudpur Mouja before the British arrived in India. 

It stands out from other districts due to its unique ethnicity, dialect and organic cuisine.

At first glance, Kalai Ruti might appear similar to other types of bread. It's larger and denser than the typical ruti, but its distinctive taste sets it apart. The use of mash kalai-er-daal-er-atta is not a common practice in bread-making but in Chapai Nawabganj, it's a fundamental ingredient.

No Bengali meal is complete without side dishes, and Kalai Ruti is no different. The bread is typically served with a few bhortas (mashed vegetables) and beef dishes. Begoon bhorta (mashed brinjal) is a staple. Another special bhorta made of green chillies, coriander leaves, onions, garlic, salt and mustard oil pairs wonderfully with Kalai Ruti. The spicy blend takes the bread to an entirely new level.

For those who enjoy meat, beef is often served with Kalai Ruti. The pairing of beef curry with the bread provides a fulfilling meal.

Ingredients:

- 1 cup Mashkalai dal flour

- 1/3 cup Rice powder

- 1/4 cup Wheat flour

- 1/2 teaspoon Salt

Combine mash-kalai dal flour, rice powder, wheat flour and salt. Make a dough using a small amount of water. Ensure the dough is not too stiff. Cover it with a damp cloth for 15-20 minutes. Before baking the bread, moisten your hands and knead the dough once more. Remember that Kalai Ruti is made without the use of any additional flour. 

Moisten the wooden bread-making pan slightly. Take a piece of the dough and shape it into a ball using your hands. Create a large bread by stretching and pressing with both hands. Preheat the clay pot. Cook both sides of the bread in the heated pot.

Aloo Ghati

Aloo Ghati, a traditional potato curry, hails from the district of Bogra in Northern Bangladesh. This dish, with its unique taste and cultural importance, has won the hearts of the local people. It is a common sight at village gatherings, where it is prepared in large quantities to cater to hundreds of attendees.

Although Aloo Ghati started as a local speciality, its popularity has transcended regional boundaries, making it a beloved dish across the country. Photo: Collected

The process involves cooking freshly picked potatoes and transforming them into a communal gastronomic experience. Although Aloo Ghati started as a local speciality, its popularity has transcended regional boundaries, making it a beloved dish across the country. It can be made with fish, especially Cotton fish, red meat or egg.

Ingredients:

Fish or meat to taste

Potato - 1kg

Chopped onion - one cup

Green chili - around 10 pieces

Dry chili - 5 piece

Ginger paste- 2 tsp

Garlic paste - 2 tsp

Turmeric powder- 1 teaspoon

Garam masala - in quantity

Panch phoron- ½  tsp

Cumin paste- 2 tsp

Bay leaves - 2 tsp

Salt to taste

Oil - in quantity

Coriander leaves - tailored to your preference 

First, boil the potatoes, then break them into pieces. In a separate pan, begin by boiling a mixture of whole cumin paste, bay leaves and dry chillies with oil. Following this, fry chopped onions and green chillies until the onions turn brown. 

Introduce the fish or red meat and lightly fry or cook both sides. Incorporate ginger paste, garlic paste, turmeric powder, pepper powder, salt to taste, chopped tomatoes and all the spices gradually, grinding them with a bit of water. 

Once the fish or meat is minced, combine it with the boiled potatoes. Thoroughly mix the fish and potatoes, adding water to form a batter. As the batter thickens, incorporate chopped coriander leaves and roasted cumin powder before pouring. Keep stirring to prevent sticking and ensure a well-blended combination of potato and fish.

Sholka 

Sholka, a traditional dish originated from the northern division of Rangpur, is cooked with various spinach varieties, primarily jute leaves, and baking soda. Despite its uncomplicated list of ingredients, the cooking process stands out. The jute leaves are precisely cut, with a handful chopped into small pieces. 

After simmering on low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, the Sholka is ready. Photo: Collected

To counter the slight bitterness of jute, additional leaves like Laushak, Kumro shak, Puishak, Sajne, or Napa shak are included to harmonize the flavours and elevate the dish.

To commence, a modest amount of water is heated, and salt, green chillies, garlic and baking soda are introduced. The baking soda is instrumental in creating the dish's slippery texture. The chopped spinach is then added to this spicey water. 

After simmering on low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, the Sholka is ready. Some individuals choose to enhance the flavour by incorporating jackfruit seeds.

What distinguishes Sholka is its exclusive reliance on chillies and garlic, eliminating the need for oil, masala or onions in the recipe. The smooth consistency of the dish further contributes to its ease of consumption.

Ingredients:

Jute leaves - about 500 grams

Other spinach varieties (such as Laushak, Kumro shak, Puishak, Sajne, or Napa shak) - about 250 grams

Baking soda - 1/4 tsp

Salt - to taste

Green chillies - 4 to 5, slit

Garlic - 4 to 5 cloves, crushed

Water - 2 cups

Jackfruit seeds (optional) - 1/4 cup, boiled and peeled