Zurhem SS23: Of Divinity, femininity & inclusivity

When Zurhem sent out the invitation card for its Spring Summer 2023 show, everyone was in awe of the beautiful bonsai tree that came along with it. Instagram posts, tagging the creative director Mehruz Munir, sang high praise for their surprise gifts. 

Little did they know that the tree would be an integral element at the centre of all activities in the show, which certainly seemed to have pushed the boundary. And boy, did they do so with profound elan! 

Ever since its inception, the homegrown high-end fashion brand has experimented with themes which have set them apart from the rest of the crowd. From the leather scene of Berlin's underground to Old Dhaka's colourful sassy styles, Zurhem never ceases to stun. The bespoke suitmakers eventually emerged to be a couturier: the brand has grown over the years from strength to strength. 

This year's show, as Saadat Chowdhury, the Chairperson of Zurhem mentioned, was their first full-fledged show after the pandemic. 

It was also unique in the sense that for the first time, they collaborated with a group that engineered a dance performance representing a gamut of human emotions. 

The show included a humongous tree as a divine force. The performer danced around it to  unfurl the story of a boy. 

His birth, growing up, embracing his feminine side and falling for a same-sex person and its societal challenges were the highlights of the performance. And it was a triumph. The storytelling was heartfelt, coupled with the mystic and melodious tracks by DJ Aks – it is safe to say the performance floored the audience. 

Usually, for every Spring Summer show, fashion brands try to showcase lots of colours, prints and stripes. But Zurhem did something entirely opposite. The brand is known for its enamoured embellishments. But this time, their collection was all white, in some parts the colour seemed ice white to me, striking for the eyes, while the performance pierced through the soul. 

How love thrives through the rough patches of stigma and oppression captivated the esteemed audience as models sashayed down the aisle wearing Mehruz's white extravaganza.

Let's dive a little deeper about the use of 'white' colour. To me, one of the reasons Mehruz Munir opted for white is because it is soothing for summer and symbolises purity and peace. 

When asked, he said, "I wanted to do something very different. It was almost like cleaning up the canvas and keeping it like that. Even my partners were surprised when I shared the idea because choosing white for Spring Summer can be regarded as endearing and to some extent boring." 

But anyone who has watched the show would say that the show was gripping from start to finish as it successfully piqued the audience's interest to know more about the so-called "effeminate boy" while enjoying the white ensemble.

For example, the sheer dresses that Tangia Methila wore or the revealing cuts of the mini dress adorned by Emi. "Even I was kind of nervous but eventually I realised I have to break the monotony and prepare the Dhaka fashion circuit for the global outlook," Mehruz explained.

Mehruz's use of fabric was something that especially impressed me. Starting from Nylon to cotton to leather, this genius design made the best use of white in every possible way. 

"I wanted to create a collection where colour is not the main factor. The shape, the texture, the movement would make all the differences," shared the British-Bangladeshi award-winning fashion designer. 

He rightly said so. As the models were walking along the ramp, the reflection of lights on their white couture revealed subtle hints of pink, purple or pastel. 

Lots of these dresses, I must admit, are not suitable for Dhaka weather, thanks to the dust we are exposed to every day. But for busy globetrotters who frequent cities with colder weather would certainly pick up the dresses.

Another exciting experiment which got the audience rooting for Zurhem was the message of inclusivity. 

As per the global fashion forecast, 2023 would be the year when heroin chic makes a comeback on the ramp. Many Hollywood celebrities like Jameela Jamil and others have strongly voiced their opposition to this trend. Echoing their concern, Zurhem made plus-size models walk on the ramp preaching that fashion is in fact for everyone. 

Besides, the show also accommodated transgender models flaunting their oomph and chutzpah. These bold moves, as Sadaat Chowdhury said, "will make the show worth remembering to the audience for days to come."

For me, the show was a wonderful beginning for the brand to express its inclusive brand identity. The audience does not get to see a representation of same-sex relationships. This show correctly reflected the reality of our time where many continue to fight for gender diversity and equality.