Jute fashion’s unlikely saviour: Gen Z

Shayla Amin grew up in a small village in Munshiganj. She vividly remembers the golden-yellow jute fields beside her house, and playing hide and seek in them with her siblings.  

During the rainy season, when the jute crops were submerged in water and all set for retting, she occasionally helped her father collect the fibres. 

The 48-year-old is currently a resident of New York city. "Whenever I find a jute product in a Bangladeshi community-based exhibition in NY, I tend to buy it. Be it a jute bag or a jute basket, my house has plenty. These products transport me back to my childhood. I instantly remember my village, my peers, and the rotten smell of jute," she said.  

Perhaps for boomers, the association of jute and jute-based products is quite common and filled with nostalgia. But, the case is entirely different for the youths, especially the Gen Z. 

The modern generation, especially those who were born and raised in cities, have never really had the chance to get familiar with jute products.  

"I have always read 'jute is the golden fibre of Bangladesh' in textbooks but never really understood why. I mean, I have never seen any jute items in my house," said Aurnima Pushpita, a student of Bangladesh University of Professionals. 

As the country celebrates National Jute Day on 6 March, The Business Standard takes stock of the influence of jute products in the fashion scene among youngsters.   

A historical backdrop

For more than a hundred years, jute was the single largest crop of this region, exported around the world. However, over the last few decades, the rise of synthetic alternatives, higher production costs, and a decline in export prices have resulted in the extinction of jute mills in the country.  

In 2002, the government shut down Adamjee Jute Mills - the largest jute mill in Bangladesh. The downfall continued into 2020, as the government announced the shutting down of 25 state-owned jute mills due to recurring losses. 

And yet, in a world where awareness about sustainable products is growing rapidly, you would expect jute and jute products to thrive. The government of Bangladesh also appears to have noticed that. In 2017, a project was taken to upgrade production technology of jute mills with a $350 million foreign loan. 

In FY 2020-21, jute and jute-based goods fetched $116.14 crore from exports, breaking the record of the previous 12 years. The industry ranks second in the export category and provides direct and indirect employment to around five million people. Although impressive, we are nowhere near exploiting the full potential of jute. 

What ticks the Gen Z boxes?

"I think jute products should be more experimental and fusion-filled if they are being designed to cater to our generation. Gen Zs are fashion-conscious on a different level, and they refuse to use fashion products that are not exciting," said Maliha Islam, a student at BRAC University.

She loves to wear jute earrings from Aarong and finds them offbeat, trendy and easily pairable with western wear.

"I love the fact that no VAT is imposed on jute-based items at Aarong," she added. 

Moreover, she uses a jute wallet for regular use. 

"Previously, I used to use leather-based wallets. My palms sweat a lot, so that ruins the leather if I hold it in my hands for a long time. Jute wallets have proven to be a great option for me as it soaks the moisture," she said.

For Pushpita, her first foray into jute fashion was with a trendy tote bag. 

"The tote, bought from an exhibition, is quite funky. I love the round shape and colour. I think what draws us into any product is fusion, bold hues and functionality. It's not just about aesthetics; it's about making a statement with every accessory," she added.

Like Pushpita, Maisha Mahjabeen Priooty, a social media influencer and a student at Dhaka University, also addresses the potential of promoting jute items among Gen Z.

"I think jute products exude an aura of bohemian style. Hence, they could be popularised among us easily. We just need more outlets to get introduced with these products. Exhibitions like Arka Fashion Week and Dhaka Makers are instrumental in shedding a spotlight on these hidden gems, showcasing the potential of jute to revolutionise the fashion landscape," she said.  

From blazers to tote bags, jute products the young can fancy

Around the world, environmentally conscious fashion choices are gaining more and more momentum. Designers and enterprises in Bangladesh too are making their mark in this movement. 

SM Sajjad Hossain, the chief executive of Mayfair Stylewear, has brought a blazer made from jute to promote jute-diversified products.

A praiseworthy enterprise, his company is already bagging clients who want to minimise climate change impacts due to fast fashion.

"I was always pondering over how to make something new with the fabric; how to create value for my customers," said Sajjad.   

Interestingly, the blazers are not readymade; they are made on an order basis. If any customer places an order, the tailor pays three visits to the customer's place or office. 

During the first visit, the tailor takes the clothing measurements, the second visit is for trial and the third visit is for delivering the product. The price of a single blazer is around Tk14,000. 

Brands like Kalindi, MIB, T-Mark Bangladesh, and Baggitude have become promising names in the market for their trendy jute bags for casual use and formal use. The price range starts from Tk1,000 and goes up to Tk5,000.

"While designing our bags, the first thing we keep in mind is if they are pairable with western clothes since the young customers mostly wear these. Previously, we used to only export. Last year, we started our journey in retail, and the response has been very positive so far," said Hadiuzzaman Khokon, one of the directors of T-mark Bangladesh.