Suits for summer
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February 09, 2023

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THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 09, 2023
Suits for summer

Mode

Md Touseful Islam
09 August, 2020, 11:50 am
Last modified: 09 August, 2020, 12:54 pm

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Suits for summer

The suit does not make one soigné, it gives one’s personality a silhouette. It is an extension of the individual’s personality – not just as they are, but also what they aspire to be

Md Touseful Islam
09 August, 2020, 11:50 am
Last modified: 09 August, 2020, 12:54 pm
Photo: Dapper Bespoke
Photo: Dapper Bespoke

Dressing well means being aware of one's crux and speaking about it through quotidian semblances. 

A suit or jacket that would have been befitting for fall, winter or even early till mid spring, would not be much comfortable for the summer in Bangladesh, or might even seem berserk. 

The weather and temperature has a tenacity of dictating the outfits. 

The summer suit - the shining knight against the heat

A summer suit or jacket is a variant of the classic suit or jacket that is crafted from fabrics amicable for warmer temperatures. 

When opting for a summer suit or a summer jacket, there is a three elements that are paramount: The fabric, cut of the jacket and interlining. 

The right fabric to avoid the frivolities

Weave of the fabrics should be the number one criterion for any summer suit or jacket. While linen and tropical wool or simply "tropical" as it is popularly addressed as, would be the most agreeable fabrics for a summer suit; there is also seersucker, quality gabardine, fresco, and summer cotton. 

It can be a challenge with linen, seersucker and gabardine to keep them tidy until the end of the day since they attract dirt more. 

There is a misconception among many that wool is only suitable for winter. 

However, much coveted for executive summer suits are made of tropical wool. 

Weight of the wool is best less than 250 grams per meter when it comes to summer suits. 

Anything exceeding that would be confining. 

Lighter colours are better than darker ones since light-coloured cloth reflects the sunlight whereas dark cloth absorbs it - making it feel warmer. 

But the light colours also have their tendency of picking up dirt, and often not so dapperly.  

Linen to live the summer
Light in weight, open weave and casual fabric structure - linen is a classic summer fabric. 

It is coarser than fine wool or cotton fibres; therefore it wrinkles. 

The textile is made from the fibres of the flax plant, and is laborious to manufacture. 

Linen fibre is very strong, absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. 

Classic summer suits in linen are ideal in the colours tobacco brown, beige or khaki tones. Linen is often available in more vivacious tones - making for unique sport jackets.  

Casual and comfortable in summer cotton

Cotton fabrics pose as the default choice during summer - simply because cotton does not impede the flow of air. 

Since in summer suits the weave is more important, twill or open weave poplin fabrics would make for a better jacket, or the whole ensemble. 

Tropical wool - Standing out with the summer standard

Considering the climate and environment in Bangladesh, the best choice of fabric for a summer suit or jacket would be tropical worsted wool. 

It is an open weave worsted wool fabric; much softer than fresco but not as much breathable.

This fabric would be best for a formal summer event or office wear. 

Suave in seersucker

A summer staple, seersucker is particularly popular in the southern USA, where the humidity and heat is similar to our own and at times crosses it. 

Albeit, this American favourite has its roots in India. The fabric's name derives from Urdu-Persian languages and refers to the dual tonality of the colours. 

As "sheer" means milk and "shukkar" means sugar, over time, the word evolved into "seersucker," a node to the fabric's resemblance of its smooth and rough stripes to the satiny of milk and the gnarls of sugar. 

Seersucker is a puckered fabric and the special texture is achieved by pulling certain warp yarns tightly, while others are left looser. 

As the crinkling effect is permanent, no ironing is required. 

The crinkling helps air circulation as it is said. The stripe-like design of this fabric makes it ideal for suits rather than odd jackets. 

Pants made of seersucker can be a good complement or contrast with polo shirts or similar coloured shirts. 

Fresco paired with finesse

The word fresco is derived from the Italian "Affresco" which means as much "as fresh". This way of painting requires the colour to be applied to the plaster as long as it is wet. 

Fresco is made of multiple yarn, high twisted wool and has a plain weave. An open weave is achieved from the high twists. 

This makes the fabric very airy - as much so in that one can feel the breeze. The high twist has a rather coarse feel to it and a rather hard touch. It all makes fresco a very dense and durable fabric. 

Due to the open weave, the fresco fabric is lightweight and of quality. 

The right cut to chic through summer 

The purpose of a summer jacket or suit is to make the wearer feel comfortable and debonair, and in return confident despite the summer heat.  

The Italian designs would be more fluxional than the traditionally structured British suiting style or the American way of suit design. 

Given that, single breasted coats with dual or single vents are ideal for a day out in Dhaka's summer. Both notch and peaked lapels work depending on the purpose of the wearer and their personality.

Right structure for the sleek feel

The suits and jackets for summer have to be structured with sewn-in canvas than fused with glue. 

A fused built is heavy, not breathable at all and overall very uncomfortable to wear. 

While hand sewn canvas moves with the body, essentially taking on the shape of the wearer and giving a dapper delineation.

In Southern Italy, the climate's temperament is similar to that of summer in Bangladesh. 

The Italian maestros craft suits without sleeve lining for maximum coolness. 

Albeit, it poses a problem - sleeve may not always look as nice with shirt sleeve sticking to the suit sleeve. It can also restrict movement. 

Hence, a lined sleeve is better to opt for.

When it comes to suits or any article of clothing that is sartorially inclined, the savoir vivre will always be the individual. 

The suit does not make one soigné, it gives personality a silhouette. 

It is an extension of the individual's personality – not just as they are, but also what they aspire to be. 

Features

suit / Summer

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