Tacos of Dhaka: Tradition, fusion and innovation
This week we bring in three of Dhaka’s hot favourites when it comes to tacos in a review battle
Nestled in the vibrant area of Gulshan and Banani, Dhaka, three culinary contenders have been luring food enthusiasts with their Mexican delights - El Toro, a timeless and traditional Mexican restaurant, Taltibaaz, a relatively new and adventurous eatery with a desi-style twist and BBQ Express - though technically not a Mexican eatery - a restaurant that puts creativity at the forefront. Each boasting a unique approach to this Mexican staple, they offer a captivating range of flavours and innovation with their tacos.
The Old Guard
El Toro, an enduring presence since 1995, stands tall as one of Dhaka's oldest Mexican restaurants. The brainchild of an ambitious owner who once resided in the USA, he turned the concept of a traditional Mexican eatery in the heart of Dhaka into a reality. Stepping inside, we were warmly greeted by Mohiuddin Ahmed, the manager, who shared the intriguing history of El Toro with infectious enthusiasm.
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Tacos, the pride and joy of any Mexican restaurant, were the star of our culinary journey at El Toro. We savoured three tantalising variations - Chicken Tacos, Beef Tacos, and Vegetarian Tacos.
Adorned with hard-shell crafted in-house, the tacos boasted a flavoursome crunch that awakened long-dormant taste buds. The crispiness of the shell, a perfect fusion of textures, seemed custom-made to appeal to the discerning Bangladeshi palate.
As Mohiuddin proudly revealed, "Most of our ingredients are imported," we marvelled at the sheer size of a massive Mexican avocado, akin to one a Brazilian friend once brought from Sao Paulo.
Traditional to the core, El Toro upheld the sanctity of their recipes, preserving the essence of Mexican cuisine since its inception. Simplicity and authenticity were the cornerstones of their menu.
The Vegetarian Taco showcased a delightful kidney bean filling, while the meat-filled ones left us in awe with their perfectly cooked and thoughtfully spiced ingredients.
Remaining true to the tradition, tacos were served in pairs, but our quest for exploration led us to sample a single piece of each variant, a decision we did not regret as each bite was a symphony of flavours.
New kids on the block
Crossing the culinary frontier to Taltibaaz, a young and vibrant Mexican joint, housed within Naveed's Comedy Club, we entered a world where innovation danced harmoniously with tradition.
Relatively new, with its doors opened in 2018, Taltibaaz aims to redefine the taco experience by presenting a fresher, more adventurous desi-style twist.
Navigating through the diverse menu at Taltibaaz, we embarked on a gastronomic adventure with three Chicken Tacos and two Beef Tacos. The selection offered diverse flavours - Tinga, Carne, Jhalfry, Birria, and Carnitas tacos.
The Birria, enclosed in a toasted corn-shell tortilla, was an instant hit for its authentic allure. The tingling flavours of Tinga and Carne, with slight variations in meat toppings, exuded a sense of familiarity.
However, it was in the Jhalfry and Carnitas tacos that Taltibaaz flaunted its creative prowess. The marinated chicken and battered chicken cubes in the Jhalfry presented an exquisite infusion of spices, seemingly tailored for Dhaka's spice-loving hearts.
Despite initial confusion from our Europeanised taste buds, the flavour-packed concoction left us delightfully satisfied. Carnitas, a burst of refreshing tastes coupled with fresh jalapenos, further demonstrated Taltibaaz's quest for culinary innovation.
A salsa dance with Kashundi
We've seen the traditional, we've experienced the new age fusion and now for our wildcard pick, we went to BBQ Express Banani. I have always been a big fan of Chef Arpon Changma's take on the food he puts on the menu. Having had the chance to see him elevating "Mungdi" to the next level, I was very keen on trying their tacos for this article.
BBQ Express has three tacos on its menu. Chicken, beef and lamb. We ordered only chicken and beef as they're the two we've reviewed from the other restaurants.
First up, the chicken taco. The chicken was seasoned simply but appropriately with only salt and pepper. Disha, who made our tacos, said the spice that had left me surprised was a mix of their in-house five spices.
Next was the Beef taco. Now out of all the tacos I had tasted for this review, this particular one was my favourite by a nautical mile. They used brisket as their protein. The brisket is what BBQ Express is known for, and they've certainly mastered the art of cooking their brisket. Personally, I haven't tasted any brisket in Dhaka that comes remotely close to theirs.
The most exciting and unique aspect of the tacos was the salsa, which had a 'Kashundi- spread' over it. Having had the privilege of tasting a variety of 'unique' tacos across multiple continents, I have to acknowledge the innovation of combining Kashundi with a Western dish, which left an unforgettable taste on my palate. No wonder this dish was my wild pick.
All my life, I thought Kashundi was something that people only consumed with green mangoes. Never in a million years did I think I'd be left stunned by Kashundi in a South American dish. Who said food couldn't bridge the gap between cultures?
Dhaka has definitely come a long way when it comes to tacos. There are plenty of restaurants that are looking to showcase their creativity in every way possible. Now, when it comes to picking a winner of this taco battle, I must admit it is a very difficult task.
Even though all three are serving exceptionally good tacos, my winner would be BBQ Express. It's the Kashundi twist that really won my heart. Why don't you go out there and see if these tacos give you the taste of Mexico?
